Amritsar,
literally a Pool of Nectar, derives its name from
Amrit Sarovar, the holy tank that surrounds the
fabulous Golden Temple. First time visitors to
Amritsar could be forgiven for the impression that
Amritsar is like any other small town in northern
India. But Amritsar stands head and shoulders above
any other city, its status elevated and sanctified by
the presence of the venerable Golden Temple.
Located in
the heart of Amritsar, the temple complex is
surrounded by a maze of narrow lanes, or katras, that
house one of the busiest markets in India. But the
Golden Temple is a serene presence, radiating a calm
that makes people bow their heads in reverence. The
gurudwara, as Sikh temples are called, is the holiest
of Sikh shrines. It is not just Sikhs who travel to
the Golden Temple to pay homage, the sacred shrine is
equally revered by Hindus and people of other faiths
who, too, make the pilgrimage to offer prayers at
Harmandir Sahib.
There more
to Amritsar than that - Amongst other sights is
Jallianwala Bagh, site of the gruesome massacre of
unarmed Indians by British troops. A major tourist
attraction these days is the Indo-Pakistan border
crossing at Wagah, just a short distance from Amritsar,
with its elaborate change-of-guards drill with a lot
of strutting and intimidatory showing off by both
sides.
If you are
'doing' north India, Amritsar is a city you should not
miss. It's easy to travel there from Delhi by road and
by rail. It is easy to navigate through the city; few
guides bother you as tourism is not the most important
commercial activity here. Ask them in Amritsar, and
they will tell you that if for nothing else you must
travel here for the roadside chhola-bhaturas.